Where in the World is Atif?

Inauguration Weekend: Final Dispatch

2009-01-20T19:46:00.000-08:00

Live from Washington DC

The Moment.

At CNN.com. That's the email address where people sent in photos of Barack Obama's oath of office this morning. With the hundred of thousands of images received, the news network created an explorable composite 3D record of history.

Although this new tool of mass participation and communication had little precedent (like many things this Presidential Inauguration weekend), it wasn't something new or complex that had the biggest impact on me. It was simply being a part of this wide field of people numbering in the millions, all there to hear a man speak for a short while.

In spending these few days here in Washington DC I, and it seems that many others, have been taken by the optimistic fervor of "Obamania." Whether or not being hopeful was naïve, we will only be able to say with the passing of years.

What I can say for sure without the advantage of history's purview is that it was not just me in Washington DC but all of us: from New York to Jakarta, from London to Long Island, and from Boston to Chicago. All of us bore witness to an event that left us in awe and reminded us of the enduring power of our American experiment.

Thank you and good night.

Inauguration Weekend: Dispatch 12

2009-01-20T10:30:00.000-08:00

Live from Washington DC

We are standing at the foot of the Washington Monument and under a clear and sunny winter sky, people have filled the length of the mall from the US Capitol Building, where the Presidential Inauguration festivities are taking place, to the Lincoln Memorial over 3 miles away!

A military band is now playing several marches and we just saw the first aerial glimpse of the Mall. And people are still coming to this unprecedented spectacle...

Inauguration Weekend: Dispatch 11

2009-01-19T19:52:00.000-08:00

Live from Washington DC

Earlier in the day, the museums surrounding the Mall had special events for MLK Day. The Sackler Gallery of Asian Art hosted South Indian dance performances with the theme of renewal and responsibility. A Kwele band performed at the African Art Museum, alongside a photo and video montage of Obamania from Zanzibar to Zambia.

A storyteller at the Smithsonian Castle chose a more sober tone and spoke of life in the simplest of terms: the year we are born and the year we die. "It is the dash in between," he said, "that encompasses our accomplishments and failures, goodness and dark times. And in a time of national introspection, we must also look into ourselves to be the change we seek."

Afterwards we dashed through the Museum of Natural History and the Sculpture Garden of the American Museum of Art. Most of the museums have now closed but the growing feeling of excitement on the Mall is intoxicating.

MSNBC just started their live coverage and a steady stream of politicos have started coming to the news outpost here. There were unconfirmed reports from fellow spectators that a former US senator as wells as Eddie Murphy just arrived!

As darkness comes around the open lawn, floodlights have streamed on, dramatically highlighting the surrounding buildings and monuments. When the sun returns tomorrow morning, we'll be just several hours away from the end of one presidential term and the beginning of another.

Inauguration Weekend: Dispatch 10

2009-01-19T14:45:00.000-08:00

Live from Washington DC

It's hazy and humid and temperatures are in the 80s. No, I haven't left DC for the DR. I am at the US Botanical Garden, just several hundred meters from the US Capital Building. This is one of several stops, including the Smithsonian Castle, that we've taken this afternoon during our extended Pre-Inauguration Day stroll of the Mall.

The museums are packed, but so is the Mall itself due to the mild weather today after some morning snow showers. Preparations for tomorrow are ongoing. Jumbotron TVs are setup. MSNBC has parked their mobile reporting room near the Museum of Natural History. Traffic barricades are up. And of course, Tshirt/calendar/button/bag/postcard/DVD salesmen are making brisk business.

At the Capitol Building itself, the San Francisco Boys and Girls Choir is practicing in front of hundreds and hundreds seats that are now empty but will soon be filled with politicians, dignitaries, entertainers, athletes, and anyone else lucky enough to get tickets to what some may say is the most hyped event in the world now. Just beyond these seating areas, a crowd of passerbys have gathered to get their own glimpse of what is to come on Inauguration Day.

Inauguration Weekend: Dispatch 9

2009-01-18T19:07:00.000-08:00

This dispatch was written with Sahar and Ali (Atif's brother's sister-in-law and her husband).

Live from Washington DC

After the Inaugural Kickoff address by Barack Obama, the sea of spectators started moving back towards the event entrances between 20 and 23rd streets. The crowd had noticeably thinned as Beyonce sang "My Country Tis of Thee," closing the luminary-studded event that Denzel Washington had started two hours before. Although fans may have left, the collection of secret service agents on the roof of the Lincoln Memorial remained.

We moved with the huge crowd past the north side of the mall, where we had waited earlier in the afternoon. At that time, we had placed bets to see how long it would take us to get on the grounds in front of the Lincoln memorial. Abdul Qadir Uncle (Atif's dad) won hands-down with a prediction that we would enter by 2:00 pm.

Obamania was soaring but tempratures were dropping. Our multiple layers of Lululemon, North Face, and CVS (emergency gloves) helped us to stave off freezing. We moved on towards the Foggy Bottom Metro Station on streets lined with military personnel. Atif picked up several buttons and a copy of the Nov 5 Washington Post from among the numerous vendors hawking their wares. As we passed through the GWU campus and got close to the station, it became obvious that we were competing with the crowds to even enter the station. After 40 numb toes, 30 minutes, and a depleted supply of kurkure (Indian cheetos) we cut our losses and retreated to a nearby pita store to warm up and nosh on falafels.

Inauguration Weekend: Dispatch 8

2009-01-18T17:56:00.000-08:00

Live from Washington DC

Joe Biden, Marisa Tomei, Queen Latifah, John Mellencamp, George Lopez, and Kal Penn (yes Kal Penn!, Stevie Wonder, Common, Tiger Woods, Jack Black, and Rosario Dawson have just spoken.

On this same soil, FDR said, "the only thing we have to fear is fear itself." Kennedy said "ask not what your country can do for you but what you can do for your country." MLK said, "I have a dream." And now Garth Brooks just sang "Bye Bye Ms American Pie."

Bono is on!

Inauguration Weekend: Dispatch 7

2009-01-18T17:54:00.000-08:00

Live from Washington DC

One word: unbelievable.

We are just several hundred feet from the Lincoln Memorial. The kickoff concert began with a marine salute that set a chilling silence across the perhaps millions in attendance, and then a performance of the Star Spangled Banner and Aaron Copeland's March for the Common Man. Acts that have come and gone on the stage read like a who's who of pop culture...Elmo (!), Bruce Springsteen, Mary J Blige, Jamie Foxx, Steve Carrell, and Patti LaBelle with Bon Jovi. Tom Hanks was just introduced. He began with "We cannot change history...but we hold power and bear responsibility to change our future."

Before all of this there were some light moments - enthusiastic volunteers entertaining the organized chaos of people heading here, a monumental wave across the crowd before the show started, and a combined chant of "raise it up" when the speakers on the right side went out...

Above our heads, a steady clip of planes continue on the flight path above the memorial enroute to Reagan Airport, in the buildup to Tuesday. The Inaugural Kickoff is the first event leading to what history may tell us years from now was a defining moment in the American experience.

Inauguration Weekend: Dispatch 6

2009-01-18T17:53:00.000-08:00

Live from Washington DC

We had breakfast and are now packed and ready for the Inauguration Kick-off, which will start at 2:30 PM at the Lincoln Memorial. Expected guests (besides Dad, Ali, Sahar, and myself) include Bono, the Boss, and Beyonce.

Eastward ho! We are going to West Falls Church Metro Station to pick up the subway to downtown. On the way we snapped pics of the Obama bumper stickers we saw.

Inauguration Weekend: Dispatch 5

2009-01-18T07:03:00.000-08:00

If you've just joined us, I am in DC and emailing/blogging my Inauguration Experience for family and friends.

Live from Washington DC

Driving towards the mall was a surreal experience. Roads were blocked off, police cars cruised the streets, and the buzz of helicopters in the sky was constant. With the unpassable routes making the GPS system unhelpful, Sahar and Ali saved the day with their knowledge of DC streets.

We caught glimpses of the Washington, Jefferson and Korean War Memorials enroute to the Lincoln memorial. A large part of the latter was also blocked off by barricades and taken over by the trailers and tents of what seemed to be TV and production crews.

The Lincoln Memorial itself was dazzling. Screens and sound systems were set up and musical groups were doing sound checks. As we were passing one side of the encampment, there was a sea of camera flashes from a paparazzi of Inauguration visiters. Bono was leaving a practice tent and returning to his trailer!

Oh, and moments before, Bruce "The Boss" Springsteen had made his way by the small crowd. See the attached photo. It doesn't tell much, but it's evidence we were there!

Inauguration Weekend: Dispatch 4

2009-01-18T06:51:00.000-08:00

Live from Washington DC

There weren't any signs of Obamania at Georgetown's McDonough Arena, but Hoya spirit was everywhere as the capacity crowd cheered on the women's basketball team against Big East rival Louisville. Despite the sign-waving blue-haired super fans, the brassy pep bad, or the pom pom wielding Hoya Kidz club, Georgetown lacked the focused play of their conference rival. Unfortunately the most exciting play was a mid court tussle between players from each team shortly after half time. The Lady Hoyas remained 15-20 points behind the entire game; the final result was Lousiville def. Georgetown 74-58.

Sahar, Ali, Dad and I had a bet to see who would come closest to the final score. I can't say I'm surprised that Dad destroyed us: he was the only person to predict that visiting Louisville would carry the day and was only a combined 6 points off the final actual score.

On to the Mall for a view of Inauguration preparation and the darkness-cloaked monuments...

Inauguration Weekend: Dispatch 3

2009-01-18T06:42:00.000-08:00

Live from Washington DC

Ice floes are covering the Potomac but the upscale stores are buzzing and there is steady foot traffic on M Street. The proprietor of a chocolate shop housed in a sleekly renovated neo-classical townhouse noted, "This is about normal for this time of year. Our store near Union Station, (where Obama will be arriving just a few hours from now by Amtrak) has had lines for some time now."

Georgetown has certainly not missed the Inauguration train. Banana Republic has instituted a "Celebrate Change" sale and Intermix has opted for an Obama portrait in a series of colors on the storefront. Twixt (a children's store) directed their message directly to the first daughters, with a large "Welcome Malia and Sasha" sign next to a red, white and blue frock.

Meanwhile in the skies above, 747s and other airplanes large and small are making a beeline to Reagan Airport, at a clip of about 1 plane every 2 minutes as seen from the Georgetown waterfront.

Clothing update: I am warm except I can't feel my toes. Good thing we're heading indoors to the GU vs Louisville basketball game. Go Hoyas!

Inauguration Weekend: Dispatch 2

2009-01-18T06:15:00.000-08:00

Live from Washington DC

The sun has come out this Saturday, but the temperature is taking a while to get above freezing. To prepare for several hours outside, I'm wearing 4.5 lbs of clothes, from polypropylene to wool to polyester to goretex to cotton to denim. These materials are a slice of human ingenuity although these 6+ layers certainly make moving around not too easy!

Barack Obama has just left Philadelphia and is on his way to Wilmington DE and several other stops enroute to DC. We're also on our way to DC. The roads are rather empty, though this probably won't last too long as CNN reports that the incoming rush will ramp up tomorrow...

Note: Each evening I will upload these live reports along with photos and candid videos at whereintheworldisatif.blogspot.com. Be sure to check it out and be a part of this Inauguration Odyssey.

Inauguration Weekend: Dispatch 1

2009-01-18T06:14:00.000-08:00

Live from Washington DC

As you may know, I am in DC with my dad for the weekend. I'll be writing these short dispatches the next few days. I hope you don't mind me playing reporter!

The first day of this inauguration odyssey went off swimmingly. Dad took the LIRR to Brooklyn, where I met him to take the subway to Port Authority. After a short wait, we used our etickets to board the greyhound bus to DC. Our Indian Uncle driver was kind of hilarious. Especially his line before we got to the rest stop: "I take ten minute. If you take more than ten minute that is okay but then you walk or take bike to DC."

There was surprisingly no traffic so we arrived at the DC station right on time at 1030. Sahar and Ali were there to pick us up and then off we went to VA. We passed lots of cop cars (the PD was likely preparing for road closures), Obama HQ signs, and oddly several vacancy signs in metro area hotels.Tomorrow's plan is to check out the art museum on the mall (many of the Smithsonian museums have special exhibits for inauguration) and then head to Georgetown to see the basketball team face off against Louisville, then likely stroll through Georgetown, have dinner, and head home to thaw out.

Weather is supposed to be in the teens with winds up to 10mph.

Shanghai， China

2008-10-09T10:00:00.001-07:00

Arrival
Maglev train
M on the Bund lunch
French Concession and Tiandokou with Nicky
Bund at night， Vue at the Hyatt on the Bund

Xian， China

2008-10-08T09:59:00.000-07:00

City Wall
Bell Tower/Drum Tower and performances
Small Goose Pagoda
Tang Dynasty
Street Festival

Xian， China

2008-10-07T09:57:00.000-07:00

Neon lights！！！
Meeting a fellow MITer at the hostel
Terra Cotta Warriors
Muslim Quarter
Bargaining for fake North Face
Xian food： bao tze， sweets， dried fruits

Beijing， China

2008-10-06T09:56:00.000-07:00

Summer Palace
Fly to Xian

Beijing， China

2008-10-05T09:53:00.000-07:00

Arrival
Bell Tower/Drum Tower
Tiandi Acrobatics Show
Paper Restaurant
Lama Temple
Forbidden City
Tianmen Square
Jongshan Park
Getting lost in hutong neighborhood， traditional Beijing 1 story housing
Dinner with undeterminable animal parts
World of Suzy Wong and Q Bar

North Pole

2008-10-03T09:48:00.000-07:00

The Continental Airlines nonstop flight from NYC to Beijing goes over the north pole！With the supe clear skies up north，I　snapped a couple of photos of the ice floes：

［ｉｎｓｅｒｔ　ｎｏｒｔｈ　ｐｏｌｅ　ｐｈｏｔｏｓ］

Ｆｏｏｄ　ｗａｓ　ｐａｓｓｂｌｅ，　ｓｅｒｖｉｃｅ　ｗａｓ　ｕｎｅｖｅｎ。　　Ｄｕｒｉｎｇ　ｔｈｅ　ｔｈｉｒｄ　ｍｅａｌ　ｏｆ　ｔｈｅ　ｆｌｉｇｈｔ，　ｔｈｅ　ｓｔｅｗａｒｄｅｓｓ　ｗａｓ　ａｎｎｏｕｎｃｉｎｇ　ｔｈｅ　ｏｐｔｉｏｎ　ｏｆ　ｄｉｍｓｕｍ　ｏｒ　ｅｇｇｓ。　Ｂｙ　ｔｈｅ　４２ｎｄ　ｒｏｗ　ｓｈｅ　ｍｕｓｔ　ｈａｖｅ　ｂｅｅｎ　ｔｉｒｅｄ　ｏｆ　ｒｅｐｅａｔｉｎｇ　ｔｈｉｓ　ａｎｄ　ｒｅｐｅａｔｅｄ　ｔｈｅ　ｑｕｅｓｔｉｏｎ　ａｎｇｒｉｌｙ　ｗｈｅｎ　ｔｈｅ　ｐｅｒｓｏｎ　ｎｅｘｔ　ｔｏ　ｍｅ　ｓａｉｄ　ｈｅ　ｈａｄｎ‘ｔ　ｈｅａｒｄ，　ｓｉｎｃｅ　ｈｉｓ　ｈｅａｄｐｈｏｎｅｓ　ｗｅｒｅ　ｏｎ。　　Ｉdidn’t realize that the meals on this 1000USD flight came with a side of attitude！

New York，NY

2008-10-02T09:45:00.000-07:00

Late day at work and then back home to watch the vice presidential debate。

[sarah palin picture here]

Did a practice run at packing。 Kind of surpised at how light my pack is。 Kind of liberating to wear the same pants and shirt for 2 weeks。

Day to Day

2008-09-09T19:49:00.000-07:00

Here's my rough itinerary (suggestions welcome!):

October
3 - Fly to Beijing around noon.
4 - Arrive in early afternoon. Check in and explore around the hotel.
5 - Olympic Architecture /Turner projects
6 - City Sites
7 - Outer Area Sites / Great Wall
8 - Great Wall
9 - Travel to Xian
10 - Historical sites including Terra Cotta Soldiers
11 - TBD around Xian
12 - Travel to Shanghai
13 - Architecture/City Sites
14 - Shanghai Bienniale
15 - Fly to NYC in late afternoon. Arrive in early evening.

Leaving on a Jet Plane

2008-09-08T18:50:00.000-07:00

Here are my flight plans...

CO 89
Depart NYC-EWR 12:10 PM on Friday 10/3/08
Arrive Beijing-PEK 1:50 PM on Saturday 10/4/08

CO 88
Depart Beijing-PEK 3:45 PM on Wednesday 10/15/08
Arrive NYC-EWR 5:30 PM (Same Day)

Although I won't be having a stopover in some exotic locale (the flights are non-stop), I am psyched about earning 13,660 miles on my Emirates frequent flier account. I'm now that much closer to a free flight to Europe!

Visa

2008-09-05T18:04:00.000-07:00

I got my Chinese visa! Woohoo. It did take 130 dollars, 4 hours, 2 subway rides, and whole heck of a lot of cajoling but I got it.

The consulate was in a strange part of town - 42nd St at the West Side Highway - not the usual UES haunts, and over 4 avenues from a metro stop. When I got there, there was the usual security screening and a deli-style number dispensing machine. The waiting room was super packed by 9:45AM, only 45 minutes after opening. About half of the visa-hopefuls appeared to be of Chinese descent, with the rest a hodge podge of students and visa courriers.

Up Up and Away...

2008-09-02T19:38:00.000-07:00

I'm vetting my flight options.

Continental $1014
Dep EWR / Arr PEK Nonstop

Delta $1028
Dep LGA / Arr PVG (Shanghai) via Atlanta

Air Canada $1078
Dep JFK / Arr PEK via Vancouver

Other than that, United to Beijing and Shanghai (via Dulles) is the only other option under $1200.

Beijing Beijing

2008-09-01T19:44:00.000-07:00

It's been almost a year since I landed back in New York from my whirlwind 55-day tour, but I am at it again (albeit for only 2 weeks this time)...

After being seduced by the fantasy-architecture of the Olympics,

Clockwise from Top Left: Herzog & De Meuron's National Stadium ("Bird's Nest"), PTW Architects' National Aquatics Center ("Water Cube"), Pei Zhu's Digital Beijing Buildng, and Paul Andreu's National Theatre ("Egg")

More information:

Essay by Paul Goldberger in The New Yorker: http://www.newyorker.com/arts/critics/skyline/2008/06/02/080602crsk_skyline_goldberger

Beijing architecture blog: http://beijing08082008.blogspot.com/

Archinect article: http://archinect.com/news/article.php?id=78771_0_24_0_C17

...I've decided to travel to China from October 3 to 15 to see the avante garde in person. I applied for my visa and should be picking it up next Friday, September 5 barring any last minute snafus. I'm looking into flight options, and it seems that a nonstop to Beijing on Continental is the cheapest, coming in at just under $1000 (a steep discount on the $2200 prices during the Olympics).

Now to the rest of the planning. I need to figure out:

1) My budget.

2) What to do in Beijing. I am thinking 1 day each for a) Olympic architecture, b) historical sites-center city, c) historical sites-outer city, d) Great Wall, e) puttering around.

3) Where to go for a side trip. I'd like somewhere green and non-urban to contrast with the side of China I will see in Beijing. Or maybe arrange a stopover in Korea (fly via Asiana with a stop in Seoul).

4) Where to stay each place I go

2007-09-27T19:06:00.000-07:00

New York City, USA

Now that I'm back at home, I have had some time to think over the past two months.

Here are my conclusions:

1. Travelling alone was surprisingly easy
2. Time and timing were both incredibly important
3. Thoughtfulness and honesty counted for a lot
4. Improvisation was a must
5. The people I met along the way defined my experience

2007-09-26T18:04:00.000-07:00

London, United Kingdom

London calling! In a whirlwind day in the perpetually stylish British capital, I saw the Tower of London, St. Paul's Cathedral, Parliament House, Westminster Abbey, Buckingham Palace, St. James Park and Hyde Park, Russell Square, St. Pancras Station, as well as modern architecture by Norman Foster. At the end of the day I took a London Walks "Jack the Ripper" Tour.

2007-09-24T14:48:00.000-07:00

Cambridge, United Kingdom

I spent a day at the heralded home of such luminaries as Newton, Tennyson, Byron, Cavendish, Watson, and Bacon: the University of Cambridge. The university currently teaches about 17,000 students and is divided into distinct colleges, including Trinity College (home to the courtyard race from Chariots of Fire) and King's College (with its iconic fan-vaulted chapel).

2007-09-23T14:23:00.000-07:00

Loughrea, Ireland

I headed to the west coast with Ben and his classmate Rich who were competing in the 1st annual Loughrea, County Galway, Triathlon. Had a great time checking out the stunning scenery and cheering Ben and Rich as they motored to impressive finishes.

2007-09-22T14:21:00.000-07:00

Dublin, Ireland

Resurgent Dublin is the heart of the "Celtic Tiger," the name given to the fast-growing Irish economy. The city reminds me of Boston, both cities being of a walkable size, divided by a major river, and having a mix of traditional European as well as more modern styles of architecture. In Dublin I have been staying with my old rowing buddy from Boston, Ben, who is attending medical school here.

2007-09-18T17:04:00.001-07:00

Lubeck, Germany

Lubeck is quite possibly the most beautiful city I have visited on this trip. A medieval walled city that was integral to the Hanseatic trading union of Central Europe, Lubeck has numerous outstanding examples of Gothic architecture.

2007-09-17T17:04:00.000-07:00

Hamburg, Germany

Hamburg was slow to show its charms. I wandered from one Lonely Planet recommended sight to another in unseasonably cold weather wondering where everyone else was until I finally found other people - around the Alster Lake in the old downtown area.

2007-09-16T17:07:00.000-07:00

Melaka, Malaysia

A centuries old port on the southwestern corner of the Malay peninsula, Melaka (Malacca) was occupied by the Chinese, Arabs, Portuguese, Dutch, English, and Japanese at various points in history. As a result, the city is an incredible mix of people, cultures, and of course, architecture.

2007-09-14T08:48:00.000-07:00

Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Think Singapore, but with more excitement and less paternalism.

2007-09-12T08:47:00.000-07:00

Pnomh Penh, Cambodia

Pnomh Penh was the first city where I actually felt moderately concerned for my safety. Although the gritty, bustling, tiring capital city had some interesting tourist destinations, but it was the lakeside guesthouse that I found the most pleasant. I curled up on the covered porch with the DaVinci Code during the afternoon monsoon rains and watched the clouds race across the sky above the lake.

2007-09-11T08:54:00.000-07:00

Battambang, Cambodia

The tired colonial crossroads of Cambodia, a 4 hour boat ride from Angkor Wat and 4 hour bus ride to Pnomh Penh, Battambang unfortunately didn't have much to keep my interest.

2007-09-08T19:00:00.000-07:00

Siem Reap, Cambodia

Happy Birthday Sunny! So sad about missing her 2nd Birthday party back home on Long Island...

2007-09-08T09:15:00.000-07:00

Siem Reap, Cambodia

Viva Angkor Wat!

2007-09-06T09:12:00.000-07:00

Bangkok, Thailand

I have been pleasantly surprised by Bangkok. I saw a number of the famous wats (temples), took boat rides on the klongs (canals) and the mighty Chao Phraya River, took in the scene at Khao San Road and Soi Patpong (don't ask), got a bunch of business clothes tailored, and cheered on professional muay thai boxers from ringside.

The two streets of guesthouses, hotels, bars and restaurants that comprise Khoa San Road area is the crossroads of backpackers in Thailand. In the course of two days I unexpectedly bumped into friends I had made in Krabi, Ko Phang An, and Ko Tao.

2007-09-03T19:13:00.000-07:00

Bangkok, Thailand

Took the ferry and bus from Ko Tao via Chumpon and arrived last night to Bangkok (AKA Krung Thep, or the City of Angels in Thai). Headed to the (in)famous Khoa San Road area and found a pleasant hotel on Soi Rambuttri. Starting the tourist trail this morning!

2007-09-01T04:35:00.000-07:00

Ko Tao, Thailand

After the madness of the Full Moon Party, I joined two Basque and one German friend on their trip to Ko Tao, the diver's paradise in the Gulf of Thailand. Did some snorkelling, diving, motor biking, saw amazing views from the beachside porch of AC Resort, and met some more awesome Europeans/Brits (but alas, no Americans).

2007-08-30T04:30:00.000-07:00

Ko Phang An, Thailand

Took a ferry, minibus, cargo ship, and pickup truck to get to Hat Rin Beach for the infamous Full Moon Party - all night beachside dance party/mayhem with thousands of tourists from everywhere.

2007-08-28T01:08:00.000-07:00

Krabi, Thailand

I arrived at Rai Ley Beach Saturday afternoon via ferry from Ko Phi Phi. By chance, my new Brit friends from the Phang Na trip were also on board, so we caught up on the happenings of the past few days. Rai Ley is easily the most chill place I've visited on this trip. It is a small peninsula from the mainland, with about 10 hotels, and a handful of restaurants and rock climbing/diving outfitters. To come ashore, we anchored about 100m from the shore and had to wade through water/muck since the town doesn't have a dock! It seems to be this is where the Americans and Canadians are hanging out, since I have heard English spoken with a familiar North American accent much more often than Phuket or Ko Phi Phi.

On Sunday, I had an amazing full day rock climbing expedition with a local guide. We started off in the morning by learning the basic skills and then testing them on the rock face right at the beach. After lunch (red curry with fish and yellow curry with shrimp), we headed to Penang Beach to climb in and around the limestone caves, and then did a rappelling course. The last climb of the day was the best, so I was totally charged up during the jungle walk back to the climbing shop. In the evening, I had dinner with a few fellow climbers at the restaurant at the Diamond View Resort, where I am staying.

2007-08-24T01:07:00.000-07:00

Ko Phi Phi, Thailand

Described as "epically beautiful" by Lonely Planet, Ko Phi Phi is a jewel in the Andaman Sea. Its limestone cliffs, crystal blue water, and stunning skies were used as the backdrop for the The Beach, the film starring Leonardo DiCaprio. The first day I booked two separate snorkeling/touring half day trips. In the morning I snorkeled at various locations on the main island. Ko Phi Phi Don, and then sailed through the smaller island, called Ko Phi Phi Ley. In the afternoon trip, I snorkeled some more and then walked along a jingle trail to famous Maya Bay.

The next few days were very relaxing: stayed in a beachside cabana, hung out with Canadians, Europians, and Aussies, kayaking, and chilling at the seaside restaurants and bars. Cliff diving on the last day was far from relaxing. I took a long boat with a group of New Yorkers to a site with 8, 10, 12, and 15m high jumps. Coming down from the tallest one literally took my breath away. Next stop: Rai Ley Beach at Krabi.

2007-08-21T01:07:00.000-07:00

Phang Na, Thailand

Bond, James Bond. Today was the Phang-Na full day tour, which included elephant trekking, visit to Monkey Cave, sea kayaking in/around limestone caves, a visit to the island featured in Golden Eye, visit and lunch at a fishing village, longboat ride, and cashew factory store tour ("free" stop). The group included some great people from UK, Bangladesh, Australia, and Korea.
I had an excellent time.

In the evening, I ventured to Bang-la Road, the main drag at Patong Beach where my seaside hotel in Phuket was located. Think Spring Break in Cancun.

2007-08-20T22:42:00.000-07:00

Phuket, Thailand

I flew into Phuket early this morning on Tiger Airways. Phuket is a large island in the Indian Ocean, off the coast of southern Thailand. I showed up without any accomodations, but was able to find a great hotel (similar to the one in Delhi I stayed in with my family) at a cheap price and get setup with tours for the next few days. After settling in at the hotel, I went for a run along the winding seaside roads and then rented a motorbike and zoomed along in search of hidden beaches, stunning vistas, and some good grub.

2007-08-19T00:43:00.000-07:00

Singapore

Started off the weekend at Clarke Quay on Friday night - met expats from as far flung places as Ulan Bataar and Orlando. When I was about ready to purchase my tickets for Phuket, Thailand and needed my passport, I couldn't find it. I thought I had lost it and then went through the whole hullaballo of retracing my steps. Luckily it was at the last place we visited at Clarke's Quay.

On Sunday I hung out with Noor Bhai, Bhabi, and their daughter Zahabiya. Then Monday morning I was off to Phuket.

2007-08-17T00:23:00.000-07:00

Singapore

The last two days have been a bit slower than the previous. I met Nafisa, the daughter of my parents' friends from Bahrain for coffee on Thursday and then went to the Night Safari, a tram ride that allowed a close-up look of the nocturnal habits of animals including lions, jaguars, and deer. On Friday I saw my friend Jim from NYC for lunch, saw the famous Raffles Hotel, and then went to Sentosa Island, a "plastic paradise" of water-themed entertainment. On the train ride over I struck a conversation with a local Singapuri guy back from studying abroad who was also visiting Sentosa for the first time. We spent the day walking around the island together.

2007-08-15T22:44:00.000-07:00

Singapore

My first few days in Singapore have gone along swimmingly. I slept most of Tuesday and then met my friend Mickael for a nightime stroll along Orchard Street, the main shopping thoroughfare. On Wednesday, I played the part of the proper tourist and packed my day with visits to Arab Street, Little India, and Chinatown, along with a stroll around the padang, the colonial-era lawn that is surrounded by government buildings, cultural institutions, and of course the Singapore Cricket Club.

I have been enjoying good (and cheap) Singapuri food, including laksa, bee-hoon, and chili prawns. Food is freely available on street-side stalls and in small markets at every elevated metro station (called MRT).

2007-08-14T00:34:00.000-07:00

Singapore

I spent my last day in Dubai seeing family from Pakistan, family friends from Bahrain, and a university friend from Boston, as well as checking out the Mall of the Emirates featuring an indoor ski slope (!) called Ski Dubai. My flight on Monday morning to Singapore was 8 hours but took the whole day because of the eastward time zone changes. No problem since service on Emirates was excellent as always. Hmm...anybody have an inside connection at Emirates? I did not setup a Skyward Rewards account when I flew to India in February and it is now beyond the 3 month period during which I can add past travel.

Singapore is clean and orderly (ex. $500 fine for eating in the subways). I met up with my friend Mickael with whom I am staying, late Monday night, and then slept through Tuesday afternoon! Man, its tiring being a tourist...

2007-08-11T14:25:00.001-07:00

Doha, Qatar

I want to thank my family for providing insightful trip advice and giving me such generous gifts:

-my parents for sponsoring my New York to Dubai airfare on Emirates
-Adnan Bhai and Roshan Apa for an awesome new camera
-Farheen Apa and Alejandro Bhai for sponsoring my local flights, including this weekend's UAE to Qatar flight on Air Arabia

2007-08-11T13:47:00.000-07:00

Doha, Qatar

I am here in Doha to visit my cousin Moiz and his family (all of whom I was meeting for the 1st time) and my college friend Chaitra. My 1st stop was Moiz Bhai's house, where we had dinner and then went for a drive along the Corniche in downtown Doha. Coming from New Doha, the skyline of the main city was dazzling, with lights from occupied office buildings and hotels, countless construction cranes, and boats plying the harbor's waters. On Friday we went to the mosque and then hung out at the house. My 2nd cousin Huzaifa come over late in the day and we chatted for a bit, before I headed over to the Four Seasons Hotel to meet Chaitra.

After pow-wowing with Chaitra's consultant friends on assignment here from New York and various European offices, we headed to the Old Souk, for an outdoor dinner of Chicken with Grilled Cherries, "Pregnant Chicken" (???), and a number of kebabs and vegetable-based mezes, and then came back to unwind at the hotel lounge. Saturday was unbelievably chill, just spent the entire day at the Four Seasons: at the beach, the rock pools, and the spa - a great way to end of tiring week of being a tourist.

2007-08-11T13:11:00.000-07:00

Sharjah, United Arab Emirates

Thursday felt incredibly slow - probably a combination of a) 40C + weather and b) nothing to do except wait for an evening flight to Doha.

In the morning, I hopped into a taxi and headed to Sharjah's Megal Mall, making the following unrelated observations:

-Children's playland prominently featured Islamic themes and architectural typology
-Azaan, or call to prayer, played on loudspeaker, though there wasn't an appreciable decrease in number of people walking in the mall
-Elevators were motion-activated
-Majority of women wore all black with a) faces uncovered, b) mouth and nose covered only, c) only eyes uncovered, or d) entire face covered in a diaphonous veil
-At one children's clothing store, Okoido Jeans, this season's clothing was Beatles-inspired, a theme that may have been lost to kids born 30 years after the Fab 5's heyday
-McDonalds served only Halal food and had regional options like "McArabia Kofta"

2007-08-08T13:40:00.001-07:00

Empty Quarter, United Arab Emirates

Today I went on safari, Emirates-style. I joined an oranganized tour on a dune-crashing 4x4 expedition into the famed Empty Quarter, the open desert that stretches through the UAE, Saudi Arabia, Qatar, and Oman. It was a seriously awesome time. The driver let out air from the tires, so we would have better grip in the dunes. 30 degree hangs, long slides, and 180s left our tourist crew laughing (tinged with fear) and gasping for air.

Afterwards, we raced dune buggies, ate bbq meat (true to my Pakistani roots, I skipped all the "green stuff"), and watched a belly-dancing performance. I was alone on the trip, but befriended/latched on to (haha) alternatively to a South African banker, Indonesian engineer, and two sets of Brits on holiday.

Earlier in the day, I checked out Al-Hisn Fort in Sharjah and met with friends from when my family lived in Bahrain in the '80s. Off to Doha, Qatar tomorrow to see my cousin Moiz and my college friend Chaitra!

2007-08-07T20:59:00.000-07:00

Sharjah, United Arab Emirates

Just found this pic of my niece Sanah (AKA Sunnu Munnu, Sunny, Julia, Tomato) on my camera from Sahar's wedding in Chicago in July. Sanah's 2nd birthday party is next month!

2007-08-07T13:52:00.000-07:00

Dubai, United Arab Emirates

Another sweltering day in the 'E. Spent some time in the morning looking for flights for a short weekend trip in the Gulf, and then headed over to the Rolla Bus Station in Sharjah to catch a bus to Dubai. In asking for directions, Urdu was just as helpful to me as English, not a surprise though given that upwards of 50% of the population here is from South Asia (according to Lonely Planet).

Once in Dubai, I got off at the southern half of the city, called Bur Dubai, separated from Deira by the Dubai Creek. From there I hoofed it on Al-Fahdi Street to the impressive Grand Mosque (I noted Greco-Roman inspired carpet designs). The AC was cranking, as I couldnt keep my hand on the stone pillars inside for long without risking frostbite. Many of the South Asian workers were taking lunchtime naps in the anteroom. Next door I perused the galleries of the Dubai Mosque and saw some interesting displays of sea rock and gypsum construction methods and wind towers, which were used in residential construction to exhaust hot air, since ground level windows were considered inappropriate culturally. After getting recharged with awesome Kashmiri Biryani and Limca, I wandered through the shuttered old town Bastakia Quarter, where I finally saw green parrots, which were shelling nuts in a tree canopy. Also nearby were the creek waterfront lined with dhows and abras, local boats used for transporting goods as well as people, and the cloth souk.

The evening traffic was bad so the return trip to my cousin's apt took nearly 4 times longer than the late morning trip out. After powwowing there, we and his flat mates headed to the Burj al-Arab, the curved hotel on the gulf, replete with a rooftop helipad, nightclub, and tennis court. We spent time on the adjacent beach, where the water was warm, and the air warmer. On the way there and back, we passed through Jumeirah, the ultra-exclusive neihborhood of gated homes and high-end malls that reminded me of Orange County. Before falling asleep back home, we watched Hindi music videos on Z-TV (including the addictive "Mayya Mayya" from Guru).

2007-08-06T13:03:00.001-07:00

Sharjah, United Arab Emirates

My flight came in 45 minutes shy of midnight on Sunday. I met up with my cousins Mustafa and Huzaifa and headed to their place just north of the city. I recharged from my Grey's Anatomy (I know, I know)-Namesake-Lonely Planet Middle East watching and reading marathon with 12 hours straight of sleep. On my 1st day in the UAE, I checked out the Crystal Plaza, Central Souk, and Saudi Mosque, all in Sharjah:

2007-08-06T10:01:00.000-07:00

Dubai, United Arab Emirates

Phew, it's been an exciting past 4 days, here's the recap.

3 Cheers for me! Thanks to all for an awesome 25th bday/sendoff party at Sunita Bar in Lower East Side on Friday 3 August. Shout out to Dwayne and Katherine for putting it together, and to my sister Farheen and brother-in-law Alejandro for a sublimely satisfying dinner at Little Giant beforehand. I unfortunately didn't have my camera that night, so feel free to email "choice" pics.

After wrapping-up packing on Saturday, my parents and I noshed on lemongrass chicken, shrimp street toast, and pan-fried fish over okra at Silent H in Williamsburg. A short drive to JFK and a long wait in Terminal A later, I was off to Dubai. Being on an Emirates flight I ate 4 meals in the course of 16 hours. During the stopover in Hamburg, I made short work of the hour by comparing colognes at the duty-free store...

Lacoste Red: Nice bottle-evocative of a croc's back. Horrible scent-evocative of pinesol.
Polo Black: balanced and subdued
Lacoste Green: Hmmm...reminds of the scent of burned chemical residue from middle school science experiments
CK One: classic smell of pine and rosemary

2007-07-26T19:53:00.001-07:00

Going on a jetplane...

04 AUG 20:15 EK 206
New York JFK to Dubai
Arrive 05 AUG 23:25

13 AUG 08:45 EK 432
Dubai to Singapore
Arrive 20:05

07 SEP 02:00 EK 344/205
Singapore to Hamburg via Dubai
Arrive 13:40

20 SEP 15:25 EK 205
Hamburg to New York JFK
Arrive 18:05

2007-07-20T19:50:00.000-07:00

Greenpoint, Brooklyn

2 weeks until I start my trip. Planned stops:
Dubai
Singapore
>Cambodia
>Thailand
>Nepal
Hamburg
>London
>Dublin

Any must see's or must do's? Drop me a line.